RV Fridge Not Cooling? Common Causes and Solutions

A warm RV fridge is one of the most common summer calls we get. Most RVs use an absorption fridge. It has no compressor; it moves heat using a burner or heating element, ammonia solution and gravity. That makes it quiet and able to run on propane, but it's also sensitive in ways a house fridge isn't.

Check These First

• Level. Absorption fridges need the coach close to level to circulate. Running one badly off-level can damage the cooling unit.
• Pre-cool time. They're slow. Turn the fridge on the day before you load it, and load it with cold food.
• Ventilation. Heat leaves through the outside vent and roof cap. Clear out leaves, nests and webs, and in hot weather try to park with the fridge side in the shade.
• Power source. If it works on propane but not electric, or the reverse, that points to a heating element, igniter or control board rather than the cooling unit.
• Door seals. Close a piece of paper in the door. If it slides out easily, the seal is leaking cold.

Signs It Needs a Technician

• A yellow powder or strong ammonia smell around the back. That's a leaking cooling unit, so turn the fridge off.
• A check light or flashing error code that comes back after a reset
• The burner won't light, or lights and then goes out
• The fridge cools on neither power source

Repair or Replace?

Igniters, thermistors, elements and boards are normal repairs. A failed cooling unit means a decision between replacing the cooling unit or the whole fridge, including 12V compressor fridges, which handle Okanagan heat well. We'll walk you through the trade-offs for your coach and how you camp.