Troubleshooting Common RV Electrical Issues

Most "my RV has no power" calls come down to one of a handful of causes. Before you call, it helps to know which of your RV's two electrical systems has the problem.

Two Systems, Two Sets of Symptoms

12-volt DC runs off your house batteries: lights, water pump, furnace fan, slide motors and fridge control boards. 120-volt AC comes from shore power, a generator or an inverter, and runs the outlets, microwave, A/C and the electric side of the water heater. If the lights work but the outlets don't, look at the 120V side. If everything is dead off the pedestal, start with the batteries.

Checks You Can Do Safely

• Pedestal breaker. Reset the campground breaker and look for a scorched or loose plug on your power cord.
• GFCI outlets. One tripped GFCI, often in the bathroom or outside, can kill several outlets downstream.
• Battery disconnect. Make sure the battery switch is on. It's easy to bump off while storing the coach.
• Battery voltage. A rested 12V battery reading under about 12.2 volts is low. Corroded terminals look like white or green crust.
• Fuses. Check the 12V fuse panel for blown fuses and replace them with the same rating, never higher.

When to Stop and Call

• A breaker or fuse that trips again right after a reset
• Warm or melted plugs, outlets or wiring, or a burning smell
• Lights that dim or flicker when an appliance starts
• A tingle when touching the RV's skin or steps. Unplug immediately; this can be a dangerous ground fault.

Safety First

Disconnect shore power and turn off the inverter before opening any panel. The converter and inverter can keep circuits live even when you're unplugged. Our Red Seal technicians diagnose converters, inverters, transfer switches, solar charge controllers and wiring faults in the shop or at your site.